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6 September: Tallinn

6 September: After almost 6 days in Sveaborg, it was time to seek new chanllenges. This time a 45 nm. trip across the Finnish Sea to Tallinn. In strong WSW wind, it went fast. Approaching Tallinn the wind increased considerably and with Gib 1 and 2 reefs in the mainsail, I arrived in a "horrible port" at 1645 hrs. I was "secured by locked gates" and "Mary Lou" was "dancing" as if she were at anchor on open Sea...

Fredrik had given me a description of the Marina, which didn't compair to, what I was experiencing,.. It was now raining cats & dogs, so I decided to sleep on "open Sea"

7 September: Thought is "smart" to find nother mooring and something which suited Fredrik's description.  I made a seaward sightseeing, and finally, deep behind the big ferry terminal, I found a very organised Marina.

As my plans were only for a short stay in Tallinn as I was in a hurry to meet my next "Milestone" - the "Laurin Koster" Fleetmeeting in Finnhamn outside Stockholm on 15 September, I started my sightseeing in Tallinn right away. Little did I know, that I would have 2 more days in Tallin.

8 September: Weather bound. It was blowing between 12 and 15 m/s from NW, which was the direction  I was bound to go. There was no alternatives as I had realised that I couldn't go W. as my Plotter Chart - foolishly enough - stopped its coverage only some 20 nm. West of Tallinn...but I have "plenty" time, I said...

9 September: Still Weather bound! Time is getting scarce.. Still "only" about 300 nm (incl. extras for tacking) left to Finnhamn!!

In the evening the wind drops totally. Having chosen an early night in preparation for tomorrows trip, it was with annoyment, that I was woken up at 0200 hrs by a song, loudly played over the - up till then - silent harbour. However, the song intriged me and I took note in order to find it on the Net. I did,and it was called "Dear Mr. Presindent", but I will only call it the "Tallinn Song".

10 September: Finally, the wind eases up and turn to SW. and I set sail for Hangö. After 7 hours, sailing. the wind drops completely and the engine is started, realising, that it will not be Hangö this time around. As I had run out of lamp oil, it was essential to get to a "shopping possibility" in time to buy some more.Therefore,  I decided to go to Ekenäs and arrived at 1915 hrs.

The only people present in the harbour was a married couple taking a walk. When, I approached the getty, the man came running to assist. I asked for advice regarding lamp oil, and they said they would check wether the local gas station was still open and signal me a "Yes or No" from the distance, the result of which was a "No" signal. I.

I was still thinking, that it was a kind of unfair, that I didn't succeed, when the man re-appearred in front of "Mary Lou" carrying 2 bottles of lamp oil.... I was not even allowed to pay for the delivery, but extremely happy to meet such kindnes and helpfulness. He was invited on board and we had a good time, during which he gave me his phone no. in case, I would experience something he could help me with.

I came to Ekenäs, not knowing, that I had friends there...Now I know, and hope to meet Catarina & André again

11 September: The day started with hardly no wind and a 3½ hours engine trip before Hangö was passed, which coinsided with sufficient wind to set sail. From here, I had a nice sailing, although the wind was increasing, ending up in 10-12 m/s from the absolutely worst direction (SSW). I decidet to go into Kasnäs for fuel and stay for the night.

12 September: One of the days where all aspect of sailing are being used, unfortunately also the combination of mainsail and engine in strong head winds. However, the sun was shining in the afternoon :-) This mix of sailing brought me 60 dm closer to Finnhamn, ending at 1930 hrs. in Sandvik on the island of Kökar in Åland, SE of Mariehamn. 

13 September: This was a Thursday, but it "worked" as if it was a Friday...had I known what the day would bring, I'm sure, that I would have stayed in Sandvik....

Although the wind seemed to have "glued itself" to the SSW direction, there was no apparent wind and I decided, that it was time to cross the Sea of Åland and enter Swedish waters, despite a weather forecast of SSW 8-10 m/s. When I came out of the sheltered harbour, I soon realised, that it was already at 10 m/s maybe even more as "Mary Lou" - although only carrying the high jib and the 2nd reef applied - was under heavey pressure. It didn't take long before I concluded, that "this is not the day to cross…" and headed towards Mariehamn to wait for a better day…

I found an entry into the Åland Archipelago, which would lead me to Degerby. However, it turned out to be a "dead end" as a bridge - only allowing motor boats to pass - stopped me. This happened several times and at the end of the day, I had sailed 60 nm. of which over half were a "waste". Every time there is a cable ferry running, they put a sign up to warn you. I don't understand, that they cannot do the same with a sign of a bridge with an indication of the height…

It is of course basically my own fault and shows, that handling a boat singlehanded in rough winds and navigate in an Archipelago takes all your concentration.

After this "ordeal", I took the first harbour I could find, which was Långnäs, where I arrived 2030 hrs. in complete darkness.

14 September: In consequence of a weather report of 15-17 m/s in the Sea of Åland, I moved "Mary Lou" to Degerby (photo) in preparation for an early start Saturday morning, in case the wind would "play along"

15 September: This is the day of the Laurin Koster Fleet meeting and "Mary Lou" has "only" about 50 nm. to go....

The wind "played along" - kind of... The direction was slightly turned. Now SW instead of SSW, but the force was still around 10-12 m/s in the morning, where I had to tack in order to clear the most southern part of the Åland Archipelago and "Mary Lou" in her - now - "Standard gear" (Jib 1 + 2nd reef).

After some hours the wind force decreased and the crossing went well. Arriving to the Swedish Archipelago, the wind was at such a level as the Genua was set. It had been a long time since I saw that, but unfortunately, the wind continued to drop and in order to reach the Fleet meeting before they started dinner, the engine was started. "Mary Lou" was absolutely the last boat to arrive as she entered Finnhamn at 1730 hrs after a sailed distance of 60 nm.

The arrangement went well and I'm happy that I eventually reached it.

Everyone was nice. One of the women said to me upon my arrival: "The grills are fired up, so bring your meat and join us". When I said that I hadn't had a chance of buying anything for grilling, she looked at me and said: "Then you will get some of ours". Kind people...

Photos from Finnhamn (chose second from the top)

16 September: Most of the day went with boat visits and a lot of skipper talks. One by one the boats sailed home.

"Mary Lou" departed at 1600 hrs. to meet with Margareta & Gunnar on "their island" - Björkholm.

Little did I know, that Gunnar had tried to contact me all day to inform that they would not be coming. Finally, they decided to come and had just arrived, when I came. I was offered a Sauna in what, I will descripe as one of the best placed saunas (photo to the right), I have ever been in, maybe even the best... The sea water was not too cold!

After sauna, I was invited to dinner and we had a wonderful evening

17 September: The wind was back to SSW and strong, so I decided to remain on Björkholm with "Mary Lou" well protected in the little private harbour. I bacame a very relaxed day and during the afternoon we took Gunnar's speedboat and sailed to a charming little shop for provision.

We had drinks in the "Glas house" and later a nice dinner.

18 September: Sandhamn

Although the wind hadn't changed a lot, I decided to sail the short distance to Sandhamn.

Gunnar got the brilliant idea of making me company on the trip of which he took full control...

Upon arrival, we agreed to take a long walk to work up an appetite for the following "herring" lunch.

Unfortunately, the trip took more time than expected as Gunnar suddenly disappeared. After a lenghtly search, I was lucky to find him...

After a late lunch, Gunnar had to take a ferry (with many stops) and then wait for a buss for an hour before he could take his boat back to Björkholm, all of which took dobbelt the time it took "Mary Lou" to sail to Sandhamn

19 September: It seems the wind direction will never change... It can only be short trips. Today 15 nm to Malma Kvarn (right)

 

20 September: Another short trip: 17 nm. to Karlslund Marina

21 September: The Weather rapports are now forcasting Low Pressures to be queueing up to "hit on" Scandinavia. The immediate forecast said that heavy rain was expected at noon. Consequently, I made an early start and arrived to Nynäshamn before rain...I unpacked the bike and drove to "Rim Nam", a Thai restaurant owned by Rune, a Laurin Koster owner, who was not able to meet up in Finnhamnen.

When I arrived he was otherwise engaged, so we agreed that he would come to the boat, when he was free. He came and invited me for dinner in the restaurant. This was not difficult to "accept", not because I appreciate Thaifood so much, but because Rune is a nice guy with a thorough knowledge of boats designed by Arvid Laurin. It was a pleasant evening.

Rune's "outfit" is NOT standard for Swedish Thai restaurants, but only becaused he nicely drove me back to the harbour in the Rain...

22 September: Rain, Rain and more Rain. Decided to concentrate on indoor activities. Still hoping for a Northern wind, so I can see the Spinnaker again and get us to Gotland.

23 September: The rain stopped at 1100 hrs. - The sun seemed to be on its way and - most importantly - the wind had decided to change 90 degrees to the North, so in a 7-9 m/s from NW, "Mary Lou" and made a fast sail of 44 nm. South to Arkösund, keeping an avarage of 6 knots. So no "Spinnaker" and "Gotland" this time around...

Trip log total: 1200 nm.

No need to mention, that only few yachts are cruising at this time of year. Often "Mary Lou" is the only yacht in the harbours.

Arriving to Arkösund, there was one boat there. It was "Elenora" with Kerstin and Rolf from Lidingö, whom I had met in many harbours in Finland. Now they were on their way south to take "Elenora" up for the winter... and we meet again. "Small world"! 

24 September: St. Anna's Archipelago

The lovely Archipelago of St. Annas starts in Arkösund in North and goes to Valdemarsvik in South.

The plan for the day was to sail to Gryt's Varv (for minor repairs). Not a long distance, so I started around noon in bright sunshine and a moderate wind from NW and was "gliding" through this wonderful Archipelago. A nice sailing day, which - according to the weather "Gurus" was the last, at least for the next days to come...

25 September: Raining most of the day. Succeeded in getting good help from the "Locals" - Arne and Janne - and the mechanical steering aid is now working again... a good thing!

Communicating during Sailing: The Internet has been difficult to get at, especially during the days in Finland, with hardly no public WIFIs in the harbours and where the use of my personal Broadband was not "freely" covered by the agreement with the Internet supplier. This has improved a lot since the re-entry in Swedish Waters.

To add instult to injury, my Webhotel administration decided to change my password for updating this Homepage to the Net and had informed me in advance by sending a "notice" by mail. However, they used my old work mail address, so I knew nothing, before it hit me during an upload session... The request for a new PW was still using same "old" mail address, so it took a full week with no updates...

26 September:  Västervik

View of Västervik taken from tower of "Sankta Gertrud's Church"

ln the early morning, I took another weather forecast on Gotland, which said ESE 13 m/s. After some miserable days with rain, the wind should turn SW, which is not good for departing Gotland. The question is whether a first time visit to this legendary island should be done under these conditions? My decision was simple - but never the less disappointing - "No way"... Another time...

In fog and rain I sailed to Västervik, which is a very nice town, even in the rain.

Forecast for tomorrow is rain, but it should clear before noon and we will see where we will go...

The first Union King - after "Kalmar unionen" was founded in 1394 - was Erik of Pommeren (Pomerania ) - fosterson of Margrete 1st of Denmark.

King Erik ordered , Westerwijk (today "Gamleby" (Old Town)) moved to the present location of Västervik.

He gave the city a new charter in 1433, where he granted a one-year tax exemption for the construction of  a church. It was built from 1433 to some time in the late 1450's and named Sankta Gertrud's Church.

Kalmar Union Flag

Wild life: During the trip, I have only seen few differencies to sailing in Danish Waters

During the past days, the observations of massive flocks of birds on their Autumn Migration have been impressive.... Today a flock was resting on the water, when "Mary Lou" disturbed them and they took off...

Other interesting observations have been the big Sea Eagles on hunting raids and the odd Seal popping up its head close to "Mary Lou" and its big eyes looking at you as if it asked: "Who are you"? I of course tell it my name right away :-)

27 September: Surprise .. The rain didn't stop at noon...Actually in only cleared upon arrival to the next harbour - Klintemåla.

This was a trip on only 20 nm, but the little wind present was a headwind, it was raining and the engine running. 20 nm in this condition is enough. Didn't meet any Yachts, but only this "Monster in the Rain" (right)

I am not predicting anything for tomorrow, but will go by a "We'll see"....

28 September:  Borgholm, Öland

28 September: I take my Weather Forecasts from 3 sources - the Swedish (SMHI), the Danish (DMI) and the Norwegian (YR) - to get the "best guess of the wind direction and force... These sources give very different forcasts. Today's example is, that if I had followed DMI or YR, I would have changed to Genua 2 instead of Jib 1.

 I am happy, that I decided to follow todays SMHI Forecast and stay with the standard "Wardrope" of Gib 1 + 2 Reefs in the main.

The sun was shining, so it was a lovely trip, which brought me to Borgholm on the island of "Öland", where Borgholm Castle is elevated from the harbour.

Navigation marking: I really admire the Swedish sense of humour. Not even a Landlubber can misintepret this marking...

29 September: As Borgholm celebrated, what I understood to be a Harvest Feast, I decided it wise to move a little South. Again SMHI "won" the Forecast, at least they got the force right, i.e. 8-10 m/s, gusting up to 13 m/s. Unfortunately, they did not get the direction right! They predicted SW and it was S. i.e. the direction I was heading. So instead of 16 nm from Borgholm to Kalmar it became 27 nm...They cannot be blamed as their forcast is from Oskarshamn to Utklippan and not specifically on "Kalmar Sound" and narrow Sounds are often "correcting" the wind to follow the Sound...

Trip total is now 1350 nm and if the wind would leave SW for some days, I have about 200 nm. left to Skovshoved.

30 September: It was highly appreciated to hear SMHI forecast W winds instead of the "Standard" SW. winds, although still fresh around 10-13 m/s. This allow us to - almost - clear the Kalmar Sound without furher tacking and ended up in Kristianobel, which has been on my visiting list since a visit in the harbour back in 2003, when the family rentet a cabin in Fågelmare, only a few kilometers away.

The town is smal and "cute", which makes you think, why it can hold such a "grand name" indicating a huge city..

The explaination is, however, simple as the town was founded by the Danish King Kristian 4 and was up to the 1658 the border between Denmark and Sweden. It was an important market town with a fortress, which was to maintain the Danish domination of Blekinge. The city was to be a military base and at the same time a city of trade and commerce..

The church was built in 1624 by Christian 4 and is the only building in the city, dating from Kristianopel's heydays from 1603-1679

Wild life: New observation on the migration to the South.

On my trip to Borgholm, I observed a flock of birds turning around and fly back North. "Fully understandable in this strong head wind" I said to myself, only to realise, that the flock had decided to rest on the water, and wish to land with a rear wind. I would have said head wind is better for landing, but these birds obviously know otherwise.

In the silence of Kristianobel, I heard the birds "communicate", and my best guess is that these birds are some kind of geese.

1 October: Karlskrona

With sadness, I discovered, that the Yachting season is over in Sweden... as the the Swedish weater forecast via VHF stopped sending its forecasts on 1 October... Very disappointing, as it leaves me with the Internet as the only source and access has been scarce.

The last one I heard was a SSW, but only 5-6 m/s. Consequently, I hade to tack the last 15 nm. out of the Kalmar Sound, before I could "cut West at "Långöre" and take the narrow waterway to Karlskrona. A marvelous trip in bright sun and fair winds, which for once was not Head winds.

The Log has now passed the 1400 nm for the trip with about 170 nm left, if I can be that lucky that tacking could be avoided. Such luck is, however, does not lye in the current forecasts...

2 October: Karlskrona

The weather forecast of SW-erly winds has made me decide to stay and extra day in Karlskrona. The day was partly spent on a closer view of Karlskrona

The picture above is from the "Stor Torget" (Central Square) with "Fridrikskyrkan" on the right. It is said to be "inspired" by the "Santa Trinita dei Monti" in Rome.

On the right: "Trefaldighetskyrkan" from 1709. It is also known as the "German Church"  as the many Germans in Karlskrona took this church "as their own".

More about Karlskrona

3 October: Hanö Island

With an early start in a grey morning, we motored towards the open sea in a moderate (5-6 m/s) SSW wind to see what direction could be hold. It turned out to be OK, but the aspect of a 80 nm distance was not appealing, especially with a ETA to be 2000 hrs. Consequently we sailed West to the island of Hanö.

In the fresh SW wind forecasted for 4 Oct. It seemed smart, then to continue to the "mainland" and tack along the coast Southwards. However, a sign on the harbour warned´of shooting practise in the area, preventing us to go closer to the coast than 5 km. The actual weater will decide...

'Another Yacht was already in the harbour upon our arrival   - the Laurin 28 "Elfriede" - owned by Leif from Karlskrona.

A historic view: On 10 June 1810, "another famous ship" - HMS Victory - Under command of Admiral Saumarez (Head of the British Baltic fleet) paid a visit to Hanö. The visit lasted for about 2 years, during which The Royal Navy used it as base.

The background was, that the Russians (then in alliance with France) on February 1808, had , , marched into the Swedish Finland. Peace was concluded in Hamina (Fredrikshamn) in September 1809, resulting, that Finland was to be a Russian Grand Duchy and that Sweden should be part of the continental blockade against UK.

Nevertheless, Swedish trade with the British continued. Napoleonic France raged over this and forced Sweden to declare war on Britain on 17 november 1810.

Consequently, Swedish ports could no longer be handler of British goods... To continue this - for both parties - important trade, bastions were established at Vinga Sand, Anholt, Sprogø and above all Hanö.

4 October: Hardly no wind and being a head wind, it meant a 8 hours motor trip to clear "The Bay of Hanö" and I settled with a 3 ½ hour motor trip for a "tactical" move West in the Bay in preparation for strong W wind forcasted for tomorrow.

This brought us to Åhus, which - despite the rain - seems to be a charming place. It holds 10,000 inhabitants and one of Sweden's best preserved medievalcities(town centre). The cobbled square is one of Sweden's most beautiful and dating from the Middle Ages, when Åhus was a lively city with trade and shipping. Here you find charming narrow streets and well-preserved "Tudor houses" from 1700-century. At the square is the beautiful "Santa Maria Kyrka" which was build by Archbishop Eskil of Lund during 1100-century.

A historic view: Åhus can be dated to around 1000. In the mid 1100-century the Danish king gave the Åhus area to Archbishop Eskil of Lund, after which the city grew. St Mary's Church was built in this period. In the 1200-century, Åhus got its City Municipal Charter.

In 1243 a Dominican monastery (also called Black Friars Monastery) was founded, and in the 1300s walls and a moat was made around the city. Åhus was declared Skåne's most important trade and maritime center in the East. The reason for the city's growth was the large herring deposits in the Baltic Sea, which Åhus enjoyed.

After the Reformation in 1536, Åhus began losing importance. The Monastery was closed and the church's funds disappeared.

Christian 4 founded Kristianstad in 1614, consequence of which was that he withdrew Åhus' Municipal Charter in 1617. Large parts of Åhus' population were forcibly moved to the new town of Kristianstad. Not until the 1800s, when the port was expanded and a railway was built, that Åhus again began to flourish.

5 October: The morning started with sun and head wind, although not much... All of this changed rapidly after few hours by Engine.

I gave myself the choice of two: 1) Continuing beating into a 7-8 m/s head wind for about three hours or 2) arrive in the nearest harbour within half an Hour and have a good lunch!

I had a VERY good lunch in Kivik.!

They are priceless, these Swedes...!

 

Kivik was founded as a Fishing harbour due to the many herrings sometime in the early 1100 century.

Today, the area around Kivik is Sweden's largest fruit district as the climate is mild and suitable for orchards. The  apple cultivation alone occupies over 800 acres of land around the town.

Last Weekend in September, Kivik has her yearly Apple Market, with tasting of the apple harvest , grading of the largest apple, revealing the winner of the year's "Apple Art" and the "Golden Apple" winner, apple contests, etc. all accompanied by live music,

The Appel Market also includes the first weekend in October, so I am lucky to be here in the centre of all this....

I can't help thinking of the big difference there would be, if Åhus had a similar "feast" as they pride themselves of being the home town of "Absolut" Vodka...

The "Apple Art" 2012. The year's Theme was "Mother Earth". It is gigantic as can be seen by the 2 persons in the corner...

The "Apple Tent".corner...

6 October - Skillinge

Having based my planning on SMHI's forecast of a W wind of 6-9 m/s, I was  deeply disappointed to see that the wind was actually from W, but only 0-1 m/s. I decided to sail for motor to Skillinge, which is the last harbour in Bay of Hanö before turning "The Horn" of Sandhammeren (Swedens most South Easterly point).

For Skillinge, I will put it fairly simple: Skillinge is "just another fishing town" from somewhere between 400-800AD. The news are, that it started as a "Camping site" for traveling fishermen, who left the site, the moments the fish did...

As it is always recommendable to seek a "second opinion, I checked the Wikipedia, which does not improve the view further, as it writes: "Skillinge is a locality in Simrishamn Municipality, Skåne, Sweden with 859 inhabitants in 2010. Skillinge has become known particularly for its theatre".

'One could suspect, that the author of the Wikipedia entry has just drovn into the town and seen the road sign at the right!

Summerry of Skillinge seems to be, that it is only known for its "Fishing Actors".

Beside the above, Skillinge is a charming little town.

When it stopped raining and the evening sun came out, I took a stroll. Gunnar had asked me to say hello to his brother - Richard - if I came to Skillinge. I did and it was a pleasure to meet him and Else.

7 October: SMHI was back in the "lead" in forecasting as they said W 10-13. I thought, that it would be around 13 m/s in the afternoon, so took an early start. However, when I turned "The Horn" of Sandhammeren at 0900, that hope disappeared as it was W and closer to 13 m/s and high vawes. At this poing "Mary Lou" was "wearing" the Gib 1 and 3 reefs in the main. After an hour of "this", I rememered, that "pensioneers do not tack", and chose to "call it a day" and sail in to Kåseberga. I am loosing time and the forecast are of the same strength and my only hope that it will turn to NW which has been mentioned in some of the reports....

8 October: "I just knew it"... After a VERY long period with fairly strong SSW winds, the wind was bound to shift ! ... and it did and of course to W, so I could continue to "benefit" from strong head winds...and in addition the Sea is "rough", now beeing off the sheltering East Coast of Sweden.

With a SMHI forecast for Tuesday of W 10-13 and rain, I was not too keen to stay in Kåseberga, which is a nice harbour and town. However, not for 3 days... I was pleased to see the wind drop a bit and especially the Sea "calmed" down to some extend and left 1530 hrs. for Ystad, where I arrived at Sun set.                     Total Distance: 1514 nm.

9 October - Ystad

Status: "Weather bound" (W 15-17 m/s). Consequently I had time to do some shopping and Seightseeing

About Ystad: Surprise, surprise... it began as Fishing town (Herrings), after Bishop Absalon had made peace in the area. Ref. "Ystad in a Nutshell"

On the left: Sankta Maria kyrka (Saint Mary Church), which was "founded" around year 1200. It was destroyed by a storm and rebuilt in the middle of 17th century. From the tower comes a muffled horn signal every 15 minutes - between 2115-0100, every night of the year. It is played by "The Towers Watchman" and is a  tradition from the 17th century and the watchman is simply telling you to sleep well... One might ask: "Why wake up people, that might already be sleeping..."?

Sankta Maria kyrka seen from the cenral square, behind the Town Hall.

In picture to the left is the German Yacht - "Cia Sou" (Maxi 1050) - is one of the very few, still cruising the Baltic Sea. We have met him several times. First in rainy Nynäshamn, then in Karlskrona and now we are meeting up again in Ystad. This will be the last time we meet as he - on his way back to Flensburg - will go to Klintholm (DK) which we will not (hopefully as it would be out of our route home).

10 October: Despite the considerable size of Ystad Marina, it was actually closed for the season, only impact of which was, that there was no fuel to buy. As we were fairly low on Diesel and the forecast talked about weak winds, I decided it wisely to go to Abbekås, where I had heard had a Automate for fueling.

Abbekås is a very charming little Fishing harbour with good room for visiting Yachts

History: Abbekås was originally a fishing village (surprised?) on the coast of Skåne between Ystad and Trelleborg, already mentioned in the Middle Ages. On Wednesday, 13 November, 1872,  much of the village was destroyed by a flood called "Backafloden", developed by a hurricane, that struck the south coast. 34 houses were destroyed, all fishing gear, boats and the winter storage. The water level rose to 3.6 meters above normal, which is still Swedish record. Already in the following year began - with the help of government grants - work with a real port, and the fishing and coastal trade was able to get started. A new heyday of fishing occurred during World War II.
Today the village has seven registered fishing boats. 2011 renovated piers and wharves, and the entrance was redesigned to enhance security in the outer harbour

Although Nils Holgersson came from Västra Vemmenhög (6 km NW of Abbekås) it seems that he has been "adopted" by Abbekås!

10 October - Smygehamn

Smygehuk Lighthouse is 17 m (56 ft) high and constructed of iron. It was completed in 1883, and taken out of service in 1975 in favour of the offshore "Kullagrundet" Lighthouse. Following an initiative by Trelleborg Municipality,  - among others - it was relit in April 2001. Smygehuk Lighthouse marks the southernmost tip of Sweden and the Scandinavian Peninsula. Originally, the lighthouse was powered originally by Paraffin Oil, but this was soon replaced by electricity, and the lighthouse was fitted with a 1,000 watts incandescent lamp. The luminous intensity was 180,000 Hefner candles. The rotating third-order lens spread the beams of light in the correct pattern "every fifth second a flash alternating between red and white". Today, the lens no longer rotates, and the lamp is only 60 watts. Despite this low wattage, it still reaches about 15 km out over the sea, providing guidance mainly for Yachts and Fishing boats.The site has also been a weather station, which made its last report in April 1984.

After topped up the fuel, we continued to Smygehamn, which I remember as a little lovely harbour. It has either changed or my memory has failed misserably... It is also called "Smygehamn Marina", and I - obviously - need to refresh the definition of a "Marina"....

It is very small, which can been seen by how much "Mary Lou's" mere 32 Ft. fills in the pictures!

11 October - Skanör

I had almost forgotten, that the Sea can look like this... of course it is not ideal to go by engine all day, but anyway a nice change to the weather, I have had since Stockholm

I headed for "Falsterbo Kanalen" to cut considerable distance of the "homerun". After my earlier experience with passages of the bridge, I should have known, that the "Service Level" (or lack of same!) would have changed. However, I could imagine, that it would be as bad as it is... The Bridge only opens 0630 and 1830 hrs. from 30 September through to 15 April..

IConsequently, I had to go back and take the longer route South of Falsterbo. It was, however, a very nice trip and gave me the opportunity to go to one of my absolute favourite harbours - Skanör.

Remains from Skanör Castle from around 1230. Here lived the Danish King's "Tax collector". The taxes from Skanör was the largest contrubutor to the King. The stones from the Castle were used to build the Townhall in 1777.

The Church, which is buiild around 1200 and the rennaisance Alter is from 1604.

History: In the Middle Ages herrings came in quantities, so that boats could not get through… Consequently, there was power struggle between the Danish kings and the Hanseatic League for the income from Herring trade. The many wars between Denmark and Sweden for Skåne were mostly the battle for the "rights " to the Herrings, which was a major export commodity as the Catholic Church did not allow people to eat meat before the holidays and the fasting.

This made Skanör-Falsterbo lived up properly during the so-called Hanseatic period. 40,000 people come to Falsterbo annually for the traditional Herring market. To put this number in perspective, Copenhagen only had about 3000 inhabitants at the end of 1300's´.

When markets ceased at the beginning of the 1500 – century, Falsterbo and Skanörs prosperity and greatness disappeared.

Wild Life: Falsterbo is the point where the bird migration "takes a break" before crossing to Germany. This - of course - attracts a lot of people, whom I belived mainly to be Swedish. I addressed 3 "mature" men with expensive binoculars to ask which birds they were looking for. They had travelled all the way from Switzerland to see the birds...

Northern Part of Skanör seen from the harbour

12 October - Skovshoved Havn

In a fresh SE wind, "Mary Lou" returned to Skovshoved Havn at 1345 hrs. after almost 2 ½ month of sailing and with a distance covered of 1580 nm.

History: Skovshoved is an old fishing village. Every day the "Skovser konerne" went the 12 km. to Gammel Strand in Copenhagen to sell the fish their husbands had caught. It could also be one of the fishermen's daughters, if she was above 16 years.

Skovshoved only got its fishing harbour in 1936. This has since been expanded to give room for Yachts.

Skovshoved Hotel: Is from 1656 and still active with Pub, Restaurant and Hotel.

At a point in time, it was named "Skovshoved Sø- og Badehotel" and was used by "well off" people in Copenhagen as their "Summerplace", although only 12 km. away...

The End